Socks for the People

Diamond Rib Socks from the Toe-Up
(c)Arwen Golden 2008

This pattern is written for 3 gauges as follows: 7sts/1" (7.5sts/1", 8sts/1").

Abbreviations:
*M1: Make 1 stitch as follows : with the tip of the needle in your right hand and from the front, lift the "bar" between two stitches. Slip the stitch onto the left hand needle from the front. Knit this new stitch through the back loop. *w&t: Wrap and Turn as follows : bring the yarn between the needles to the opposite side of the work (if you are knitting, bring the yarn forward; if you are purling, bring the yarn to the back), slip one stitch onto the right hand needle, bring the yarn between the needles to the side it was on originally, slip the same stitch back onto the left hand needle, turn work.
*Sl 1: Slip 1 stitch Knit-wise.
*yo: Yarn Over.
*psso: Pass the Slipped Stitch Over.
*K2tog: Knit 2 Stitches Together.
*RT: Right Twisted Stitch as follows: knit two stitches together without slipping stitches off of left needle; knit first stitch again and slip both stitches off onto right needle.
*LT: Left Twisted Stitch as follows: skipping over first stitch on left needle, knit second stitch through the back loop; knit first stitch normally and slip both stitches onto right needle.

Begin with the Figure 8 cast on:

Holding two needles side by side in your left hand, bring the yarn from above, between the two needles, and wrap it counterclockwise around the left needle, back between the two, then clockwise around the right needle. Continue making wraps around both needles in this manner until 8 wraps are on each needle (be sure not to count your tail). You should end on a right needle, clockwise wrap.
Knit the wraps from the left needle through the back loops.
Knit the wraps from the right needle.
Knit the stitches on both needles once more.

Begin Increases for the Toe:
From your left needle, K1, M1, K6, M1, K1; this is now needle #1 - these are your instep stitches. From your right needle, K1, M1, K3; this is now needle #2. For the remaining stitches on the right needles, K3, M1, K1; this is now needle #3. The stitches on needle #2 and #3 are your heel stitches.
Knit 1 round.

Continue Increases as follows:
R1: #1 - K1, M1, knit to last stitch on needle, M1, K1; #2 - K1, M1, knit to end of needle; #3 - knit to last stitch on needle, M1, K1.
R2: Knit
Repeat these two rounds until you have 52 (56, 60) stitches, arranged with 26 (28, 30) on needle #1, and 13 (14, 15) stitches on both needles #2 and #3.

Work Diamond Rib Pattern for Instep Stitches:
R1: K1, p1 (p1, p2), *K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, Sl 1, K1, psso, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2).

R2, 4,6 & 8: K1, p1 (p1, p2), *K7, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2).

R3: K1, p1 (p1, p2), *K2tog, yo, K3, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2).

R5: K1, p1 (p1, p2), *K1, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, K1, K2tog, yo, K1, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2).

R7: K1, p1 (p1, p2), *K2, yo, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, yo, K2, p1 (p2, p2): repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2).

Repeat these 8 rounds until foot measures 3" (3 1/4", 3 1/2") less than the length of your foot. While maintaining instep pattern as established, repeat Increases as above for needles #2 and #3 only, until the number of heel stitches is doubled.
Knit across Instep Stitches - end with an odd pattern row and make a note of which row you end with. Begin heel.

Short Row Heel:

R1(RS):K37 (40, 43), w&t, turn work.
R2(WS): P22 (24, 26), w&t.
R3: K21 (23, 25), w&t.
R4: P20 (22, 24), w&t.
R5: K19 (21, 23), w&t.
R6: P18 (20, 22), w&t.
R7: K17 (19, 21), w&t.
R8: P16 (18, 20), w&t.
R9: K15 (17, 19), w&t.
R10: P14 (16, 18), w&t.
R11: K13 (15, 17), w&t.
R12: P12 (14, 16), w&t.
R13: K11 (13, 15), w&t.
R14: P10 (12, 14), w&t.
R15: K9 (11, 13), w&t.
R16: P8 (10, 12), w&t.
R17: K7 (9, 11), w&t.
R18: P7 (9, 11), with the tip of your needle, *pick up the wrap at the base of the next stitch and slip it onto the left needle, p2tog; repeat from * 6 more times, pick up the wrap at the base of the last wrapped stitch and p3tog (wrap, stitch and next stitch in line), turn.
R19: Sl 1, K14 (16, 18), with the tip of your needle, *pick up the wrap at the base of the next stitch and slip it onto the left needle, ssk - repeat from * 7 more times, pick up the stitch at the base of the last wrapped stitch and sssk (wrap, stitch, and next stitch in line, turn.

Shape Gusset:
R1(WS): Sl 1, purl to last stitch before gap, p2tog, turn.
R2(RS): Sl 1, *K1, Sl 1; repeat from * to last stitch before gap, ssk, turn.
Repeat these two rows until the number of stitch on needles #2 & #3 returns to the original number of stitches before increasing. You should have one stitch beyond the gap on each side. End your last RS row by knitting the stitch beyond the gap and rejoin for knitting in the round.

Knit one even row across instep stitches.

Establish Pattern for Back of Leg:
K1, pick up 2 stitches from the gap and sssk with the next stitch in line - this will close the last gap, M1P (p1, p1) *K7, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat M1P, (p1, p1), K1, slip first stitch from instep stitches onto needle #3 and K1. You will now have 54 (56, 60) sts total - 25 (27, 29) sts on needle #1 and 29 (29, 31) sts arranged on needles #2 & #3 - it is easiest to have 18 (18, 19) sts on needle #2 and 11 (11, 12) sts on needle #3.

Diamond Rib Pattern for Leg:
Begin with the Odd Round Corresponding to where you left off in the Instep Pattern, adding changes as written for Leg:

R1: p1 (p1, p2), *K2tog, {K1, yo} twice, K1, Sl 1, K1, psso, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending second repeat p1 (p1, p2); K2, p1, *K2tog, (K1, yo) twice, K1, Sl 1, K1, psso, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1, K2.

R2, 4, 6, & 8: p1 (p1, p2), *K7, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending second repeat p1 (p1, p2); RT, p1, *K7, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1, LT.

R3: p1 (p1, p2), *K2tog, yo, K3, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending second repeat p1 (p1, p2); K2, p1, *K2tog, yo, K3, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, p1 (p1, P2); repeat from * twice more, end last repeat p1, K2.

R5: p1, (p1, p2), *K1, yo, Sl 1, k1, psso, K1, K2tog, yo, K1, p1 (p2, p2), repeat from * twice more, ending second repeat p1 (p1, p2); K2, p1, *K1, yo, Sl 1, K1, psso, K1, k2tog, yo, K1, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1, K2.

R7: p1 (p1, p2), *K2, yo, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, yo, K2, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending second repeat p1 (p1, p2); K2, p1, *K2, yo, Sl 1, K2tog, psso, yo K2, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1, K2.

Repeat these 8 rounds until the sock reaches the 1-1 1/2 " less than the desired height. Begin ribbing.
Twisted Rib Cuff:
R1: p1 (p1, p2), *RT, p1, K1, p1, LT, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2), RT, p1 (p1, p2), *LT, p1, K1, p1, RT, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, LT.

R2: p1 (p1, p2), *K2, p1, K1, p1, K2, p1 (p2, p2); repeat from * twice more, ending last repeat p1 (p1, p2), K2, p1 (p1, p2), *K2, p1, K1, p1, K2, p1 (p1, p2); repeat from * twice more, K2.

Repeat these 2 rounds until cuff reaches desire height.
Make sure that you leave a tail at least 3 times the circumference of the sock for binding off.

Sewn Bind Off:
With a darning needle, thread yarn purl-wise through 2 sts. Thread yarn knit-wise back through the first stitch and drop it off the needle.Repeat until all stitches have been bound off.

Weave in ends, block if necessary.

I'm Blaming Leprechauns

Yes, I have cast on another green sweater before finishing the first green sweater. And yes that is a green sock beside them. I like green. There will now be a brief interlude of mad, hysterical laughter.

Nesting

The one thing I have sworn up and down I would never try to knit, due to a deep and accepting understanding of my many faults, is an afghan. But here we are, in a new apartment with a new and comfortable sofa and old and charming and above all drafty windows. We've painted the living room and the bathroom cabinets. Shelves have been put up. I re-upholstered the Spooky Chair (not now so much spooky as paisley). And now this has happened:



Yes, my friends, it is an afghan square. Do not be fooled by its meager and rather soggy appearance. It is the first of twenty, each 12" x 12". I have no delusions that it will be done this year (although, technically all I'd have to do is knit two every month and they only take a couple of evenings - you can see where this is going). I have no real illusions that it will ever be done at all, except that I'm using Encore and I can't imagine what else I'd do with 2000 yards of it. Here it is in its basket, lurking:


The Encore is another serious deviation from character, but this thing is obstensibly for the Man, and he will spill things on it. Salsa-y things. Marinara things. Also, it is fairly certain that at some point, the cat will throw up on it. This is a fundamental law of the Universe. Thus, Encore. I chose I lovely mottled tan, called "Fawn Mix", in the hopes that it would more closely resemble real yarn. It is soft and light and OK to knit with, even if it smells like a new car instead of a clean sheep.
One down. Nineteen to go.

The Great Schlep & the FrankenCardi

Three days of three stories down and three stories up. In the rain. Did I mention I fell in a big hole? We actually got everything moved in on Saturday, but went back to the old Veal Box to clean and paint on Sunday. Then we went to Ikea, where I had a little nervous breakdown from the exhaustion and we bought... A SOFA!
I can not begin to tell you how much I love my sofa. As a knitter who has been without one for three years, it's like I've returned from the jungle and encountered civilization again. But because to take pictures of one's new sofa, let alone post them, would put me in the running for Queen Dork of Dorkonia, here is a picture of the Mutant Cardigan:


This is basically Norah Gaughn's "Nantucket Jacket" from IWK Winter '06, but I added length and changed the cables. To be more cable-y. In retrospect, I probably should have given some thought to what would happen with those cable-y cables where the sleeve meets the sweater. As it is:

Hmmm.
I've also lost the 3rd page of the pattern. I realized this the other morning when I got to the top of the sleeve decreases: twice every RS row 6 times, then once every 4th row once, then... no next page. After digging through boxes for a couple of hours and becoming convinced that someone had snuck in here and stolen it, I gave up and just shaped the damn thing. I even wrote down what I did (smug satisfaction) so that when I get to the top of the next sleeve, I'll be able to do the same thing (I am a model of efficiency).
It may be some time before I get there, though. The Cardi Wall is looming up in front of me. Even though I only have the left front and sleeve to do, and it's half seamed (I recommend this with sweaters if you know that you have enough wool - you can try it on and this will either save you a lot of work or give you some inspiration to finish the damned thing).
And I really do want to finish it. I love it, even if the sleeve seams look like a science experiment gone wrong (throw the next switch, Igor). It's just that there are other projects calling to me, luring me with their siren call, "Just cast me on..."

Quant, um.

I finished the Quant. I sort of wandered away from the directions, so it isn't perfect, and like most things I've knit following somebody else's pattern, it's sort of too big. If I don't tweak it right, it stands up like an old fashioned habit and makes me look like I should be ministering to sick hippies. But I love it. It doesn't squish my bun and it keeps the freezing wind off my ears and holds back those little wisps of hair that stick to my lipgloss. Also, I find something really comforting about big knitted headbands, and I need comforting right now.
In a few minutes, Andy will come get me and we'll go sign the lease and get the keys and the Great Schlep of '08 will begin. Over the years, I've grown used to loathing this apartment. It is beyond weird to think that tomorrow I will live somewhere else, on the other side of the river, in a better apartment. It's like shock Feng Shui.

Entrelac and You Don't Stop Rockin'

Entrelac is one of those things like cabling and turning a heel that you think must be incredibly difficult but when you do it just isn't. I've been wanting to give it a go for a while, but haven't come up with a project - I don't need any more scarves, heaven knows, and there are already several sock projects in my queue. I don't do bags, either. I settled on Quant :



which is small and fast and easy and can be picked up with the justification of taking a little break from the Packing and be put down again quickly when someone asks why it is you a still knitting instead of Packing.
Tomorrow is moving day. I am in complete denial.
Noro bands make nice bracelets.

The Thing About Toe-Up Socks

Meet Gertrude.
(If Gerturde looks a little big, it's because she is a gift sock and the intended has bigger feet than me. She is made with Schaefer Yarns "Heather" in the Gertrude Erdele colorway.) Gertrude is an excellent example of the best thing about knitting socks toe-up.
Actually, there are lots of good things to recommend knitting your socks from the toe up: you can try them on as you go, no separate heel-flap so no picking up stitches (ok so I'm a wuss when it comes to picking up stitches), no seam at the toe, etc. All those reasons are more or less matters of opinion and preference, though, and there is nothing knitty that knitters won't dispute.
The one reason no one can argue with is that if you knit your socks from the toe up you can work on both socks at the same time and use up all you yarn. Not that I have anything against leftover yarn. It's just that you can only make so many sachets and nose warmers and mismatched striped whatsits and egg-cozies and tiny mitten Christmas ornaments and baby bootees before you start to wonder if maybe there's another way.
This is my Basic Toe-Up Template. It's the one I teach in my class, and it can very easily be adapted to any stitch pattern. The heel even looks and fits like a top down heel flap! I'll post more detailed pictures when I get to the heel of Gertrude 2.
First, measure the circumference and length of your foot and do a gauge swatch. Multiply stitches per inch by the circumference of you foot. This is the approximate number of total stitches (NTS) your sock will need.
I like to use a Figure-8 cast on. It takes a little practice but is completely worth it. An excellent tutorial can be found here.
Increase until you have the NTS. You should have half the NTS on your 1st needle, and the other half divided on the 2nd and 3rd needles. Your 1st needle is your instep, and you can now start any stitch pattern across those stitches. The stitches on the other two needles are your heel stitches. Knit up to about 3" from your heel.
Start increasing 1 stitch on each side of your heel stitches (once after the 1st stitch on 2nd needle and once before the last stitch on your 3rd needle) every other row, until the number of stitches across your 2nd and 3rd needle has doubled.
Example: You had 13 stitches on your 2nd needle and 13 stitches on your 3rd needle. This equals 26. When you have 26 stitches on your 2nd needle and 26 stitches on your 3rd needle, you're there. Knit across instep stitches.
Now, the short rows! These are worked on the heel stitches only. First, subtract 4 from 3/4 the number of heel stitches. Knit this number of stitches, wrap and turn (w&t).
Example: You started with 13 stitches on your 2nd needle and 13 stitches on your 3rd needle. You doubled this number. 13 x 4 = 52. 13 x 3 = 39. 39 - 4 = 35. K35, w&t.
Next, subtract 2 from 1/2 the number of heel stitches. Purl this number, w&t.
Example: 13 x 2 = 26. 26 - 2 = 24. Purl 24, w&t.
Continue short rows, working one less stitch each time.
Example : K35, w&t. P24, w&t. K23, w&t. P22, w&t. K21, w&t. P20, w&t.
When 9 stitches remain unwrapped (your last row should be a K9, w&t), purl 9, pick up the wrap and P2tog with the stitch it wrapped. Do the same for all following wrapped stitches on this side. On the last wrap, pick up the wrap and P3tog (the wrap, the stitch it wrapped, and the next stitch in line). Turn work.
Slip 1 stitch, knit across to the first wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap, and ssk with the stitch it wrapped. Do the same for all the wrapped stitches on this side. On the last wrap, pick up the wrap and sssk (the wrap, the stitch it wrapped, and the next stitch in line).
To shape the gusset, turn work (WS), sl 1, purl to one stitch before the gap, p2tog. Turn work (RS), *sl 1, K1* repeat to one stitch before the gap, ssk. Keep doing this until you've decreased back to the number of heel stitches you started with. You should end on a RS row. Rejoin instep stitches. When you get to the gap on the other side, pick up a couple of stitches from the base and side of the gap and knit them together with the next stitch through the back.
Keep knitting. Put the sock on holders when you get a fair bit up the leg, and start the second sock. Work it up to the same height, and then switch back and forth between the socks until just enough yarn is left to do a sewn bind off for each sock. If you are using one skein, do one sock from the outside and one from the inside.